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People can be divided when it comes to secondhand shopping. Some folks aren’t keen on the idea of wearing someone else’s old clothes, while others insist that buying pre-owned is the only way to find quality garments in the age of speedy fashion.
But whether you’re in the first group, the second or somewhere in between, there’s no denying that thrifting has become immensely popular in the last few years. Local secondhand store owners say that’s due to a number of factors.
“Consumer tastes have kind of changed,” said Rob Singh, one half of the team behind the Found Boston and Fenway Flea vintage markets. Many buyers are today aware that the clothing and textile industry is a major global polluter, Singh said. “Especially with all the speedy fashion brands that are creating the culture of ‘wear and throw’. Sustainability is a big part,” he added.
Hanadi Hamzeh, founder of Covet Boston, agrees that buyers see secondhand shopping as an environmentally friendly option. But she also believes thrifting is a bit more fun than shopping online or in a classic retail store. “ It’s more like treasure hunting; you don’t know what you’re going to find,” said Hamzeh. “It’s a great way to find interesting, unique pieces at an affordable rate. I think you can find higher quality pieces, too.”
However, finding a diamond in the rough at an estate sale or thrift store still takes quite a bit of searching. That’s why I asked Hamzeh and Singh to share a few of their expert tips for shopping secondhand. Here’s how the pros hunt for vintage:
Learn from the labels
Labels can tell you a lot about an item’s history, said Hamzeh. “There are little markers that can indicate whether it’s a high quality item, or whether or not it’s vintage,” she said. Her first tip for finding true vintage? Look at where an item is made.
“If you find Calvin Klein or Ralph Lauren with ‘Made in USA,’ — well, the USA does not manufacture most of these big brands anymore,” said Hamzeh.
Hamzeh noted that “Made in Korea” is another vintage marker. That’s because the country was a major textile manufacturer in the 1970s and 1980s. However, those industries have since shifted to other Asian countries as South Korea’s economy has become more advanced.
Don’t forget to check a garment’s material tag, either. “That’s the number one thing you should look for if you’re looking for quality,” said Hamzeh. She suggests avoiding manmade materials like polyester and nylon and instead searching for natural fibers like silk, wool and cashmere — though they may be a little pricier.
“A polyester or synthetic garment is going to be priced a little lower than organic source garments like denim, cotton, natural wool,” said Singh. That’s because the “good stuff” made from organic materials has a longer shelf life, he said. “Flannel from the ‘60s and ‘70s is still out there. I have a couple of denim in my collection that are from the 1940s. Denim, workwear … that stuff lasts, as long as you take care of it.”
Singh said the Instagram page @tagsandthreads is a good place to start if you’re interested in developing an eye for vintage. “I would say educate yourself a little bit,” said Singh. “Once you get in the flow of things, this kind of becomes natural.”
series out for signs of wear
Before a piece of clothing makes it to the rack at curated stores like Found or Covet, staff examine the item for stains or irreversible damage. “We are charging premium for something that’s pre-owned,” said Singh. “So we have to provide that kind of product.”
But if you’re treasure hunting in the free bins, at a yard sale or in the donated selection at some secondhand stores, you’ll have to keep an eye out for signs of wear and damage. Some flaws can be fixed with a run through the wash, while others can be permanent.
“I always say, of the things you can’t get rid of, one of them is sweat stains,” said Hamzeh. “If there’s damage to patent leather, you can’t fix that.”
Still, it may be worth it to pick up a slightly flawed item if you think you can repair it. “That’s a fun project,” said Hamzeh. “Most things can be fixed. If there’s a sweat stain, maybe you dye it. Or if there’s a hole, maybe you can mend it or add a fun patch. I think it depends on the item and how much time, effort and money you’re willing to put towards it.”
Understand the demand — and what you’re willing to pay
Singh said when he moved to Boston from India in 2001, many people balked at wearing pre-owned gear. But post-COVID, “people have more individual styles,” he said. “Boston’s a hip city, you know. People aren’t like, ‘Hey, I saw this on a mannequin in a mall, I’m gonna purchase it.’ People are creating their own styles.”
That makes for a little competition in the thrift store. More customers are hunting for sought-after vintage like Carhartt and Levi’s Denim at Found, said Singh. Hamzeh says that Covet, which sells women’s clothing and accessories, also has a lot more men coming in to shop for creative additions to their outfits that aren’t usually sold in men’s stores.
If an item leaves you with sticker shock, remember vintage is in special supply and the demand is only growing. Knowing an item’s benefit based on its material, condition and manufacturing history can help you sniff out whether you’re getting a discount or if you should pass.
“And if you’re at a market and you think the rate is too high, talk to the person selling it,” said Singh. A lot of secondhand vendors are in the business for a love of vintage, and may be willing to knock a few bucks off for a fellow enthusiast.
P.S. — Speaking of a good discount, we want to know: Where do you go to purchase lunch under $10 in the Greater Boston area? Tell us in this form, and your response could be included in a future newsletter.
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