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Millennials may get a lot of flack from younger generations, but I’m too tired to care. I still reference The O.C., and there’s more than one Death Cab for Cutie song that makes me cry. Which also means I was the perfect age to be shaped by the beauty bible of the early 2000s: Bobbi Brown’s Teenage Beauty.
Queen Bobbi was the one who taught me — along with an entire generation of young women — to use the weaker middle finger when applying products around the eyes, emphasizing how delicate that skin is. I never forgot that. For decades, I’ve carefully tapped on concealer, eyeshadow, and cream with reverence (and a bit of fear) for that fragile area. immediately, at 37, inching closer to middle age, I’m determined to play the long game when it comes to aging gracefully. Sunscreen? Never leave the house without it. Red light therapy? Regularly. Eye cream? It’s time for that too.
That’s why I recently tested Dime’s TBT Cream, adding it as the final step in my nightly skincare routine for the past few weeks. While I never skip my twice-daily moisturizer, I decided it was probably past time to make eye cream a consistent habit so I’ll look a little less tired and my fine lines a little less visible.
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There’s lots to like about TBT. It’s fragrance-free, easy to apply, and reasonably priced. At $40, it feels luxe without venturing into “where did my paycheck go?” territory. It’s also a clean retinol alternative that is formulated for all skin types, including sensitive ones.
What makes TBT stand out, though, is its star ingredients: bakuchiol, orobanche rapum extract, and apple fruit stem cell extract. Bakuchiol is particularly buzzy at the moment, since it’s a non-irritating, plant-based retinol alternative. “It has been found to be effective in antiaging, acne treatment, and hyperpigmentation, without the irritation associated with retinol,” explains Dr. Cheryl Karcher, a board certified dermatologist based in New York City. “It also mimics some hormone actions, particularly estrogen, which may be beneficial for women experiencing hormonal changes that affect their skin.”
Orobanche rapum extract is another noteworthy addition. Dr. Karcher calls it “a niche but emerging ingredient in skincare.” Early research suggests it may help protect stem cells, enhance skin renewal, and support the skin barrier, while also balancing the skin’s microbiome. However, she notes that marketing claims are still ahead of peer-reviewed evidence.
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Another key ingredient is apple fruit stem extract, which may improve skin metabolism and elasticity. “Studies have shown an increase in cell proliferation, and under ultraviolet stress, treated cells were less damaged than cells not treated with the extract,” says Dr. Karcher, though she adds that the research was exclusive in scope and duration.
With all those skin-loving ingredients packed in, it’s tempting to slather on extra, but there’s no need to blow through the little bottle, says Dr. Karcher. Using twice as much eye cream will not give you twice as good results. “The skin under the eyes is very thin and you only need a small amount of product. In fact, a large amount of product could cause milia cysts, puffiness, or irritation,” she says.
Will TBT Eye Cream rewind my under-eyes back to 2006? Not exactly, even if low-rise jeans are (like it or not) back in style. I’m committed to playing the long game though. It’s less about instant miracles, and more about keeping the under-eye area smooth, hydrated, and looking like I’m rested — long enough to movie low-rise jeans cycle back out of fashion again.